Hey all, I just opened up my 2400c for the first (and second time) for an HD and DIY Cardbus upgrade, and wanted to thank Ivan (if he's here) for the instructions that made it much easier than I expected. Having a parts bin with lots of little sequential compartments (RS# 64-552) for each step was also invaluable. I found the rattling screw some previous repairer had left in (in the gap behind the hard drive), and I found that one of the shells that hold the brass (?) nuts in the bottom plastic case was cracked. I'll probably replace that whole thing eventually, but it doesn't seem to affect the structure too much as the nuts seats in what's left of its shell, and its screw tightens sufficiently. I have the jumperless motherboard and attempted to simply clip off the two capacitors that I've heard MCE clips (C375 and C377). I wound up crushing them into dust, but hey, can't beat upgrading by destruction. My machine still boots and surfs over a WaveLAN, so everything seems cool, but I haven't actually tested any Cardbus cards just yet. I had to open up the machine a second time when I discovered that the HD model reported by System Profiler was not the cutting-edge Travelstar 40GNX I thought I had won on eBay, but just a 30GN lacking the former's 5400 RPM speed and 8MB buffer. I then found I'd been overzealous in tightening one of the screws that hold the display frame and rounded out the head. Being angry over the bait-and-switched HD I managed to remove and replace the new HD without removing the display or motherboard, by bending the motherboard upwards in its frame. Actually the case is what flexes, as the titanium frame keeps the boards straight. If you have small fingers, it's a shortcut that might work for you, but I don't really recommend it. My question is what's the best method for dealing with the rounded out screw? It's the one in the back above the PC card outlets. Keep in mind I may be replacing the bottom shell anyway, but the less involved the better. Thanks, Ed