On Wednesday, July 23, 2003, at 03:28 PM, Steven Rogers wrote: > > > Paper will probably be too small. Get a big sheet of foamcore board, > and spray it matte white if necessary to avoid any glare spots Darn good one > >> Position the camera as close to the projector as possible an still >> control both. >> White balance can be tricky. Auto is good. Indoor is good. Sometimes >> the outdoor shots actually look better if you switch to outdoor. >> Film can be fragile and I have had some bad luck. VideoTape every >> frame you play. > > You can get Kodak presstape splices. Its not great, but it works. The > only real danger is tearing sprocket holes when the film becomes > brittle. And that has happened . Also 40 year-old edits are fragile. > > The main trick is getting the camera and projector shutters to > cooperate. The best solution I found is to put the camera in automatic > mode and adjust the brightness of the projected image by size to > indirectly give the camera a shutter speed that minimizes flickering. Since I think the films I did were 18 FPs I just put the camera on 15FPS. > You may have to reset the screen distance for various scenes. A rear > projection "copy box" can help a lot for scenes that are underexposed, > but I found it washes out too much for regular use. If you had neutral > density filters for the projector, you could accomplish the same thing > as moving the projector, and probably get better results from the copy > box. I found it harder to get the copy box set up right and the picture straght than the other way. Jim > > The quality of 8mm film varies a lot by the camera and lens that shot > it, but it can be really good - better than VHS. > Definitely Jim