My suggestion which has been debated a few times on this list is to use a transmissive device for the transfer process -- the film itself is transmissive (the light passes *through* it to create the image), so this is probably the best way to preserve the original image quality. To use an example of why I believe the transmissive process works better, scanning negatives or slides at a high resolution is *ALWAYS* better than scanning a printed photo (even if the printed photo is perfectly color balanced). I found that when projecting onto any "super-white" surface that the colors bled tremendously and light poured off the edge of the image area -- there is no such dispersion in a transmissively projected image, so those affects are eliminated (yes, "affects"). I personally use a fold-out transfer screen that's about 11"x14" -- the image is projected on the mirror then reflected to a ground glass type surface (I think it's plastic, but it still looks good). The camera is on the other side of the ground glass recording the image which has been turned the proper direction by the mirror. Another trick is to use a variable-speed projector and play back your 18fps footage at 15fps so it syncs to your camera and helps eliminate the flicker -- this may also lend a "dream-like" quality to the motion in your films since it's slightly slower (I think it enhances the viewing experience, but others' opinions may differ). I wouldn't set your camera to "Slow Shutter" mode at 15fps 'cause the camera usually shoots at a lower res in those special modes and can cause more imaging problems if the film frames change during a video frame -- this would cause a "double-exposure" type of image with two adjacent film frames being recorded on the same video frame, overlapping each other and causing the picture to seem blurry. At worst if you shoot with your video camera at 30fps you'll get two adjacent video frames with the same film frame, but they won't be double-exposed, so it will look normal. Anyway, that's my 2 cents. - Mark