Tibook screen replacement how/where?

[Dan K]

 Tristan Gulyas <zardoz at hotblack.net>wrote:
>Not sure what I should be using to glue it back together once I have opened 
>it, though.
>
>Should I even bother, or sell the machine and invest in an aluminium 
>powerbook?
Ti LCDs are regularly available on eBay for ~US$200-250, and frequently 
for less (I just snapped one up for $149.)

<http://search.ebay.com/tibook-ti-book-titanium-g4-g4-pwrbook-powrbook-powe
rbook-power-book-pbook-pwrbk-lcd-screen-display-imac-powermac-power-mac-ibo
ok_W0QQsokeywordredirectZ1QQfromZR8QQsatitleZQ28tibookQ2CQ22tiQ20bookQ22Q2C
titaniumQ2Cg4Q29Q20Q28g4Q2CpwrbookQ2CpowrbookQ2CpowerbookQ2CQ22powerQ20book
Q22Q2CpbookQ2CpwrbkQ29Q20Q28lcdQ2CscreenQ2CdisplayQ29Q20-Q28imacQ2Cpowermac
*Q2CQ22powerQ20macQ22Q2CibookQ29>

Yikes! Whatever happened to easily understandable URLs!! :-P

If you don't disturb the hinges and other bits surrounding the LCD inside 
its bezel, it's a pretty straight-forward job. The LCD isn't really glued 
to the bezel back at all, just a couple of dabs of hotmelt and the four 
screws on the sides.

Once the LCD is installed into the bezel rear, some (masking) tape around 
on the very edge of the LCD screen face will keep squeeze-out off the 
screen. In fact, it's probably a good idea to mask all nearby external 
painted surfaces.

The bezel face can be replaced using an adhesive suitable for glueing 
metal to metal. I'd _NOT_ use epoxy. I don't know what Apple used, but 
the original stuff is thin, brown, hard and brittle. For starters, I'd 
suggest common household cement. Here the states Duco is a widely 
available name brand, but anything similar ought to work.

You might want to test-practice with the old broken LCD before the final 
assembly to determine the appropriate amount of glue to use. It always 
enhances one's confidence level when you can practice first. :-D

Run a thin bead of glue around the LCD frame's face, being careful to 
keep the glue more to the LCD's outer edge than the inner (you want 
minimize squeeze-out onto the LCD screen.) Position the bezel face on the 
LCD and using _lots_ of clips (springloaded clothespins are perfect) 
clamp all around. Might be a good idea to wipe off any squeeze-out 
_before_ it dries, though if you've masked well that may not be necessary.

If the LCD data cable is intact I'd suggest not dismantling the 'Book to 
remove the cable, just do the LCD replacement with the bezel back and 
hinges still in place. Removing the data cable from its internal 
connector requires nearly complete disassembly of the 'Book and is to 
avoided if possible.

The internal backlight connector has to disconnected of course, and on 
the pre-DVI 'Books is a PITA to get at, but it _IS_ possible. With the 
keyboard out you can feed in the new LCD's backlight cable through the 
hinge opening and guide into its socket from the KB side. I found a thin 
very long-nosed ex-medical tweezer very useful feeding the cable through 
the hinge opening.

Ahh, heck with all that, just buy a new AlBook!

:-D

Dan K

PS: I've _got_ to add the above directions (with pics) to my web page,
     I'll get to that . . . errr, eventually :-}

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